The Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu
Day 1:
Woke up at 4 am in order to catch the bus from Cusco to the starting point of our trek in Mollapata. Unfortunately, I was the only one, including guides, on time. So instead of taking the bus our guide had to dish out some extra dough for taxis. But we finally made it to Mollapata and after our horseman Manuel loaded up the mules we were off.
The trek is called Salkantay because that is the name of the mountain that has the highest pass we have to climb over (4800 m or about 15000 ft). The first day was a pretty easy day, but we could see Salkantay in the distance which we knew we would have to tackle on day 2.
Or so we thought that was Salkantay. Then we turned the corner and saw the real Salkantay.
Or so we thought that was Salkantay. Then we turned the corner and saw the real Salkantay.
First nights prognosis: Coldest Night Ever! But I really can't complain seeing our guides forgot my Namibian Tentmate Tim's sleeping bag. Instead they gave him a blanket, which I'm pretty sure they stole off the back of one of the mules. Which might explain why we had one less mule the next morning.
Another 4 am wake up call with coca tea....which all but Malter from Germany politely declined in order to sleep a little bit longer. After a kilometer's gain in altitude the crew made it to the 4800 m pass. Tim and I were able to appreciate the view for an extra two hours while we waited as some of the group struggled to the top.
Then we descended the other side of the andes into the Cloud Forrest.
After lunch the clouds lifted and we were able to see the stunning tropical forest below.
...and 11 short hours of hiking later we had descended 2 kilometers of altitude to the second nights camp site. While the cooks were taking care of dinner Tim, one of the dutchmen whose name I cant pronounce let alone spell, and I took on the local kids in a soccer match. Tim tripped over a rock as he fell into the horse shit laden field. Then he went to head the ball only to find out that the ball was covered in the same horse feces. A good laugh for the locals.
We were allowed to sleep in until 7. Which gave the cook time to make the best breakfast yet: pancake, omelette, some type of oatmeal, and of course lots of bread and coffee. Then we headed out for a quick 3 to 4 hour hike through the andean forrest to La Playa.
After lunch in La Playa we headed to the hotsprings for an overdue bath.
After cleaning off in the hotspring spirits were high. (The 4 bottles of rum might have also had something to do with it).
Look out for this guy, He's real crazy!
4 hours of sleep later we took off on the last leg of the hike. It started off nice with a cable car across the river.
But after seeing "Stand by Me" a few too many times I wasn't so sure about crossing the bridge on the railroad tracks.
6 hours of hiking later (3 of which was on railroad ties) we made it to Agua Calientes which is the base town for Machu Picchu. Felt good to have a proper shower and sleep in a bed for the night.
Third time up at 4 am....or atleast we were. Problem was the guide was nowhere to be found. There had been some grumblings in the group over the last several days of the guides incompetence. But I had remained fairly positive until this blunder. When he finally showed up at 5:20 I grabbed my entrance ticket and started sprinting up the mountain to Machu Picchu. The climb normally takes an hour and a half, but I used my anger as motivation to get me to the top in just under 40 minutes.
Out of breath and exhausted, but I was able to sit at the top and watch the sun slowly rise over Machu Picchu.
We spent the rest of the day exploring the ruins, caught the 3 o'clock train back to Cusco, and then danced at Mama Africa's until 6 in the morning.
The next day I hopped a bus for Lima where I am now. Was robbed again within twenty minutes of leaving the bus terminal, but that story will be for the next blog. I'm at the legendary Fico's house right now, and if I can get another (this will be the third) passport I should be back in the states a week from today.
See some of you soon,
Chris
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